Last week I received an email from Kelley saying "...I don't know if you've ever done an entry describing your blocking techniques but wonder if you would consider it. Seeing the difference in the blocked vs non-blocked photos on the February 7th entry show me (someone who's always been too lazy to block and not really understanding the necessity) that I have a lot to learn..."
Well Kelley, given that I have been a one-project knitter for the past few weeks and lacking for blog topics beyond another 6" complete on Halcyon, I was thrilled to have something to talk about! First thing I did was consult with the ladies: Elizabeth, Alice, Ann, Sally, Nancy, Beth, and Priscilla. Everyone seems to have their own approach to blocking, but it seems certain principles do apply...
Before any blocking, always check the yarn label and the pattern instructions. The pattern will tell you whether to seam before or after blocking, and the label will give you lots of information about how to handle that material, be it wool, acrylic, cotton or a blend. I'm just going to stick to wool in this discussion.
First, why block?
- Blocking cleans the yarn from any oils, dirt, organic matter left in, allowing the yarn to "bloom", the fabric to relax, and to smell nice
- Blocking allows you to get the measurements stated in the pattern, to get the proper fit
- For Lace, blocking is absolutely essential in opening up the lace knitting, and for cables, it sets the cables so they show their best.
Methods:
1. Soak & Spin - I use this method when I feel the yarn has a lot of natural oils and other matter in it, and for lace (because the yarn will really expand when soaked through). Fill the machine on the lowest water setting with cold water. Add wool wash, swish a little, add knitted pieces and let soak for a bit (half hour). Remove, spin water out of machine, put knitted pieces back in and spin the rest of the water out. Pin damp pieces to pattern measurements on a padded surface (a bed covered with a sheet or towel, or a blanket) and allow to dry. For lace, this will involve getting fairly aggressive at stretching the piece so the lace opens up.
2. Pin & Mist - Pin pieces to pattern measurements on a padded surface . Spray very lightly with a fine mist of water, smoothing cables and straightening edges, allow to dry.
3. Pin & Cover - Pin pieces to pattern measurements on a padded surface. Cover with a damp towel and allow to dry.
4. Steam Iron and Towel - Pin pieces to pattern measurements on a padded surface. Place damp towel over knitting and go over it lightly with a steam iron, barely skimming the surface and not pressing down. (Do not use this method with cabled or textured knitting as you might flatten the design.)
Which method to us when? I think it's personal preference. I use soaking for wool closer to its natural state, ie, closer to the farm, or where I want a good cleaning and to make a more dramatic change to the shape. Gentle dampening is good for yarn that is more processed and might just need a little freshening up and shaping. Blocking can totally soften the feel of the fabric and accentuate the beauty of all your hard work - it's so worth it!
Flower Basket Shawl, before and after blocking.
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