My Knitting Life

Wash Day

In this age of front-loaders and home delivered dry-cleaning, hand washing of wool sweaters seems like an old-fashioned, time-consuming chore.  Whenever I describe how I wash my sweaters in Eucalan to my students in knitting class, there is always a hush in the room, as if I am passing along some ancient domestic secret passed down by women from generations to generation. 

I explain to them how I fill the washer with cold water and Eucalan, swish it around and dunk a couple sweaters, let them soak a bit, fish them out, spin out the dirty water and then let the sweaters spin a bit to get the excess water out.  Then I lay them on a bed covered with towels, smoothing them into shape, turn on the ceiling fan and leave them to dry.  Sometimes I return to flip them over or turn them inside out to speed up the process. 

When they are dry, they get a nice folding and go back into the cedar chest.  They smell as nice as a baby just out of the bath, and they feel their silky softest, too.  I find the whole process very satisfying, and I love wearing a freshly washed sweater - it feels just like new.

When I bought this new bottle of Eucalan at the shop, I said to the shop owner that I thought a big bottle of Eucalan would make a nice gift for someone.  We had a little laugh over that - not a lot of people would get it, but we would! 

Seams and Pick Ups...

The great black hole of knitting.  There's no right way that works all the time.  Seams have a bit more rules about them.  Just get Nancy Wiseman's Finishing Techniques and you should be fine.  But with picking up - ok, there is the 3/4 rule going down a straight edge.  That works pretty well when you are in that situation.

My current project has me adding contrast bands around the bottoms of sleeves, body, button band and neckband.  I thought I was so smart to pick up AND KNIT the stitches twisted, closing off any gaps, I thought.  I did this on the button bands, body bottom, one sleeve, and then I just knew it was ALL WRONG.  The twisted stitches became more visible as they turned to close the gap.  On the second sleeve, I became the boss of my knitting, poked my needle in a full stitch down and picked up (not picked up and knit) and voila, a perfect smooth edge on the right side.

One sleeve was then knit correctly.  I then ripped the second sleeve and am re-knitting.  And am considering undoing hours put into the button bands and body bottom.  A minor set-back at a time of year when there is little margin for such types of error.  If I do it, the cookies won't get baked, cards sent dangerously close to December 25. 

I'm going to sleep on it and make a decision tomorrow. 

How knitting teaches us about humility....

Sometimes you think you've done everything right, controlled all the variables for a predicatable outcome.  You did your swatch, read all the pertinent information, and proceded onward, full of confidence for a successful outcome.

On the left, a lovely corregated rib mitten cuff from Charlene Schurch's Marvelous Mittens book in the classic Brown Sheep Naturspun Sport.  I didn't get too far, so it won't be too bad of a rip - I slipped in on and it is way too big around my wrist - need to downsize.

On the right, a Scandinavian Sweater of the Elizabeth Zimmerman variety, ie, design your own as you go, in Bartlett Fisherman Yarn, natural sheep colors.  The pink is the knitted in hem, which is curling badly.  Problem here?  Quite a significant difference in my flat swatch gauge and my knitting-in-the-round-while-carrying-colors gauge.  My hoped for 40" chest measurement is closer to 36".  This rip will be more painful that the little mitten, but it will happen.

On the bright side, I would rather go up a needle size on Scandinavian anyway, because the fabric is so dense and the knitting is hard on my hands.  A longer circular than what I am using will help.  So I will treat myself to a new Addi, 29", size 7.

Sometimes, our need for a quick product, or even just for blog content, causes us to lose site of the lasting nature of what we are creating.  We plow onward, knowing that there might be significant problems that will haunt us later.  This time, I think it was the yarns and these timeless patterns that caused me to do the right thing and start over.  I hope to have these mittens and this sweater when I am an old woman.  So, let's get it right from the beginning.   

Last night in class, one of the students asked me how to know how to pick out a good level project for her skill level.  Above all, I try to share my love of knitting with my students, and I have learned the importance of the right match of challenge and skill in a project.  I have seen (and experienced first-hand) the frustration that comes with a project that is too difficult, and the boredom with ones that are too easy.  So here's how I try to explain it to them...

Think of knitting projects as several different factors along an easy to difficult continuum:

                Easy                                                                              Difficult                     

                <------------------------------------------------------------------------>

Stitchwork  <Garter---------Stockinette--------Ribbing---------Cables-----------Lace>

Shaping    <None (scarf/blanket)--Some(Sweater/Shawl/Hat)--Lots(Socks/Mittens)>

Technique <Flat----------------Circular--------------------DPNs-------------Combined>

So, take a look at the project that you want to start and see where it falls on the above continuum and ask yourself if it makes sense as a next step.  I always have plenty of knitted samples with me, socks, hats, sweaters, lace, etc. and we play around looking at them in the above context. 

I think of this approach as my interpretation of project ratings in magazines and pattern books and knitting books geared toward learning, such as The Knit Stitch.  It's not really original, but works well in a class setting when you've got a mixed level of abilities and a whiteboard to play with.  It's not meant to be an absolute definition, either - some people might find lace easier than cables - but it is a great place to start discussion.

So....

"John's Guernsey", as a project falls right about...

Stitchwork  <Garter---------------HERE--------------------------------Lace>

Shaping      <None----------------------HERE--------------------------Lots>

Technique  <Flat----------------------------------------HERE---Combined>

Hope your current project is in just the right spot for learning and fun!

Today I am teaching my first felting workshop!  So last night I whipped up a couple squares just to show before and after.  These are both double strand lopi, 25 stitches on size 15 needles, 30 rows - the size of a trivet after felting.  I plan on discussing the basics of felting:

• How heat, agitation and detergent cause the fibers to bloom, twist around each other and then close up again, creating a solid fabric
• How felts shrink more in height (25-40%) than width (15-20%)
• How animal fibers felt, to avoid white yarn and superwash because they have been treated and will resist felting
• How to use the hot wash/small load cylce, put felts in a net bag, throw in old jeans to increase agitation, and check the progress every few minutes
• How to shape for drying

Mostly, I think the students will want to focus on making a cute little handbags so all this might go out the window as we play with yarns and pick patterns!

On another note, someone please call social services because this blog has been seriously neglected in the past couple weeks!  I still have a lot on my plate, but my son's First Communion is behind me now so I should have more time for blogging.  The Communion was a huge success.  The weather held out, thank goodness, because we had 21 children here with their parents for an afternoon celebration, and they all stayed outside! 

(Sigh)

We've been talking about cabling over a the BWAKAL - do you use a cable needle or not?  BWA yarn is great for cabling without because it is stiff and the stitches really stay right where you put them.  Here's how I cable without a cable needle:

1. Braided Cable over 6 stitches.  Ready for C4F, K2.

2. Slip first four stitches off the left needle.

3. With right needle, pick up two left stitches from behind the right ones.

4. With left needle, pick up two right stiches from in front of the left ones.

5. Bring left needle stitches in front of right needle stitches.

6. Slip right needle stitches onto left needle - cable complete.

7.  Knit across 4 cabled stitches.

8.  Completed Cable!

The concern when learning this technique is that you will drop stitches.  Just be careful not to pull or tug on the needles, which tends to bring the yarn through the loose stitch.  If you get nervous, just slip everything back to where it was, straighten it all out, and start over.  Wendy offers a tutorial with great photos - her technique is slightly different than mine.  She shows different types of cables, too.

That said, I miss the cable needle sometimes.  I liked to weave the cable needle into the knitting when I put it down until next time.  Who knew there were so many kinds of cable needles?  Snow clued me into the "flying bird" and Stephanie mentioned the grooved ones from Fibertech.  Cable needles are great for showing off.  People would always ask "what's that, what are you doing?" when using a cable needle.  (Sometimes that can be annoying...)

Well, hopefully I didn't bore you to tears!  Happy cabling!

 

Last week I received an email from Kelley saying "...I don't know if you've ever done an entry describing your blocking techniques but wonder if you would consider it.  Seeing the difference in the blocked vs non-blocked photos on the February 7th entry show me (someone who's always been too lazy to block and not really understanding the necessity) that I have a lot to learn..."

Well Kelley, given that I have been a one-project knitter for the past few weeks and lacking for blog topics beyond another 6" complete on Halcyon, I was thrilled to have something to talk about!  First thing I did was consult with the ladies:  Elizabeth, Alice, Ann, Sally, Nancy, Beth, and Priscilla.  Everyone seems to have their own approach to blocking, but it seems certain principles do apply...

Before any blocking, always check the yarn label and the pattern instructions.  The pattern will tell you whether to seam before or after blocking, and the label will give you lots of information about how to handle that material, be it wool, acrylic, cotton or a blend.  I'm just going to stick to wool in this discussion.

First, why block? 

• Blocking cleans the yarn from any oils, dirt, organic matter left in, allowing the yarn to "bloom", the fabric to relax, and to smell nice
• Blocking allows you to get the measurements stated in the pattern, to get the proper fit
• For Lace, blocking is absolutely essential in opening up the lace knitting, and for cables, it sets the cables so they show their best.

Methods: 

1.  Soak & Spin - I use this method when I feel the yarn has a lot of natural oils and other matter in it, and for lace (because the yarn will really expand when soaked through).  Fill the machine on the lowest water setting with cold water.  Add wool wash, swish a little, add knitted pieces and let soak for a bit (half hour).  Remove, spin water out of machine, put knitted pieces back in and spin the rest of the water out.  Pin damp pieces to pattern measurements on a padded surface (a bed covered with a sheet or towel, or a blanket) and allow to dry.  For lace, this will involve getting fairly aggressive at stretching the piece so the lace opens up.

2.  Pin & Mist - Pin pieces to pattern measurements on a padded surface .  Spray very lightly with a fine mist of water, smoothing cables and straightening edges, allow to dry.

3.  Pin & Cover - Pin pieces to pattern measurements on a padded surface.  Cover with a damp towel and allow to dry.

4.  Steam Iron and Towel - Pin pieces to pattern measurements on a padded surface.  Place damp towel over knitting and go over it lightly with a steam iron, barely skimming the surface and not pressing down.  (Do not use this method with cabled or textured knitting as you might flatten the design.)

Which method to us when?  I think it's personal preference.  I use soaking for wool closer to its natural state, ie, closer to the farm, or where I want a good cleaning and to make a more dramatic change to the shape.  Gentle dampening is good for yarn that is more processed and might just need a little freshening up and shaping.  Blocking can totally soften the feel of the fabric and accentuate the beauty of all your hard work - it's so worth it! 

Flower Basket Shawl, before and after blocking.

Happy Valentine's Day!

I'm spending a quiet day with my kids in school and my husband away on a trip.  As a sign of my love and devotion to him, I let him take my digital camera with him.  What was I thinking?  If I had not done that, I could show my finished front and back of Halcyon Aran - it will have to wait.

So today, I will just ramble a bit about a subject which I have much experience with, brought up by Katy, ripping back Arans.  Here are a couple tricks which I have found useful:

• If you decide to rip back, vs. tinking, go back until the end of the row of your mistake, and maybe another row.  To pick up, you want wrong side is facing, and working yarn to your left.  This way you will be picking up knit or purl stitches, rather than dealing with the cabled row.  Resist the temptation to say to yourself "there goes yesterday's knitting, and the day before that, and the day before that...."
• Lay the work flat.  It is best to minimize twisted stitches if you start from the left, but this only works with a circular - otherwise you have to start from the right.  Use a smaller needle, preferably a slippery addi, just to get the stitches back on the needle - they will go on easier and you will have less splitting.  Don't be an idiot by starting up again with the smaller needle.
• I just get them on and worry about any twisted stitches as I knit the next row.

If you need to unknit a sizable section, get out some double points.  Unknit (I just did this back 16 rows!), put the live stitches on a double point and re-knit with a double point.  I find the double points give me a lot more flexibility in which direction I want to work - smaller ones work well for the same reason as above.

I bet a lot of people have other great tips on this subject.  Correcting mistakes can be fun.  I usually start thinking really bad thoughts like "it's ruined!" and "there is NO WAY I can fix THIS!", and low and behold, in notta-lotta time I find myself right back to business.  Well, better get preparing some pink delicious treat for dessert tonight!  Great day, all!

 

Oops. Got a little sidetracked from zippers there. First we had the Guinness-Book-Of-World-Records Longest case of chicken pox in an 8 year old. Or at least it felt that way - 8 days and he's back at school. Then we had a run-in with a stick which resulted in a trip to the emergency room and some Frankenstein like stitches across the forehead of the 6 year old. My mom said I'm out of the woods because things come in threes - broken foot, chicken pox, stitches. Let's hope so! So, zipper is pinned in place...

The next steps are as follows:

1. Baste zipper in place.  You can see my basting stitches in the first photo.
2. Also first photo, use a back stitch to sew zipper in place on the wrong side.  I left pins in and removed them as I came to them.
3. Turn over and use an overcast stitch to sew edge of sweater to zipper.  This is where you can move the sweater around a bit to get an even look.  The stitches are like little lines perpendicular to the zipper. (Not a great photo!)
4. If you like a nice look on the inside, sew pretty ribbon over the zipper.  Margene taught me this, and it really is fun to find and use these decorative ribbons!

All zipped up!

Ok, did I make that sound painless?  It's not!  Zippers aren't difficult, and they add a sporty look to a sweater.  But there is a lot to think about and a fair amount of tedious stitchery.  I was so careful to measure, and still my zipper seemed too long!  I actually shortened it by removing the little metal stop at the top, removing about an inch of teeth, and replacing the stop.  There was a lot of cussing going on at that point, and can you see what it did to my fingernail in the first photo?

Time to move on.  Na Cragna is calling!  Have a great weekend everyone!

A Zipper Story

I've decided to give BPT a zipper. My first zipper was last year, and I have learned so much since then that I am hoping for a better result.  One thing I learned is that dark colors hide a multitude of sins when it comes to stitching.  I also know now not to skip a single step and not to rush.  OK, enough lecturing, how about if we pump up the volume around here and talk zippers!

Step One:  Assemble your materials: blocked sweater, zipper*, needle and matching thread, basting thread in contrasting color, yarn and crochet hook, pins, and Nancy Wiseman's Finishishing Techniques, which will be your guide.

*zipper: You might be lucky to find one off the shelf at your local shop, but ever since Margene clued me in to Zipperstop I don't bother running for zippers anymore. Last week, I stuck a snippet of yarn and my measurement (taken from the blocked sweater) and a basic description of what I needed it for (medium weight hooded sweater) in an envelope to them, and I had a perfectly matched zipper in three days, total cost under $5.00.

Step Two:  Single crochet a stabilizing edge around the border where the zipper will go.  Since this is a hooded sweater, I am going to put the edge all the way around.  Try to keep tension loose enough so the edge stays flat.  Why does crochet make me feel like I have hulk hands?

Step Three:  Pin zipper in place.  I like to place pins in 1 inch intervals because then I know the zipper will line up for sewing.  I pin with the zipper closed, and I try not to pin although the way through the back of the sweater or to the carpet below.  Now my neck hurts, my fingers are pricked and my thoughts turn to getting some other things done around the house.

Time to call it a day!  Tomorrow?  Basting, stitching, attaching ribbon.